brake pads FORD SIERRA 1982 1.G Routine Manintenance And Servicing Workshop Manual

Page 4 of 22

1•4Maintenance schedule
Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly
m mCheck the engine oil level (Section 3)
m mCheck the engine coolant level (Section 3)
m mCheck the brake fluid level (Section 3)
m mCheck the power steering fluid level (Section 3)
m mCheck the screen washer fluid level (Section 3)
m mVisually examine the tyres for tread depth, and wear
or damage (Section 4)
m mCheck and if necessary adjust the tyre pressures
(Section 4)
m mCheck and if necessary top-up the battery electrolyte
level - where applicable (Section 6)
m mCheck the operation of the horn, all lights, and the
wipers and washers (Sections 5 and 7)
Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or
6 months - whichever comes sooner
m mRenew engine oil and filter (Section 8)
m mCheck brake pads or shoes for wear (front and rear)
(Section 9)
m mCheck operation of brake fluid level warning indicator
(Section 9)
m mInspect engine bay and underside of vehicle for fluid
leaks or other signs of damage (Section 10)
m mCheck function and condition of seat belts
(Section 11)
m mCheck condition and security of exhaust system
(Section 12)
m mCheck tightness of wheel nuts (Section 13)
m mClean oil filler cap (Section 14)
m mCheck idle speed (where applicable) (Section 15)
m mCheck mixture adjustment (where applicable)
(Section 16)
Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or
12 months - whichever comes sooner
m mCheck automatic transmission fluid level (engine hot)
(Section 17)
m mCheck manual gearbox oil level (Section 18)
m mCheck operation of latches, check straps and locks;
lubricate if necessary (Section 19)
m mRenew spark plugs (Section 20)
m mCheck condition and tension of auxiliary drivebelt(s);
adjust or renew as necessary (Section 21)
m mCheck tightness of battery terminals, clean and
neutralise corrosion if necessary (Section 22)
m mCheck engine valve clearances - SOHC only
(Section 23)
m mCheck handbrake mechanism (Section 24)
Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or
2 years - whichever comes sooner
m mCheck air cleaner inlet air temperature control
operation (carburettor models) (Section 36)
m mRenew pulse air filter element (1.6 litre CVH)
(Section 37)
m mRenew air cleaner element (Section 38)
m mClean and inspect distributor cap and HT leads
(Section 39)
m mCheck automatic transmission brake band
adjustment (Section 40)
m mRenew fuel filter (fuel-injection models only)
(Section 41)
m mRenew crankcase ventilation vent valve (SOHC and
DOHC) (Section 42)
m mClean radiator matrix and air conditioning condenser
fins (where applicable) (Section 25)
m mCheck air conditioning refrigerant charge (where
applicable) (Section 26)
m mCheck final drive oil level (Section 27)
m mLubricate automatic transmission selector/kickdown
linkage (Section 28)
m mCheck security and condition of steering and
suspension components, gaiters and boots
(Section 29)
m mCheck condition and security of driveshaft joints and
gaiters (Section 30)
m mInspect underbody and panels for corrosion or other
damage (Section 31)
m mInspect brake pipes and hoses (Section 32)
m mClean idle speed control linkage at throttle (where
applicable) (Section 33)
m mRoad test and check operation of ABS (Section 34)
m mCheck crankcase ventilation system (Section 35)
Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or
3 years - whichever comes sooner
m mRenew brake hydraulic system seals and hoses if
necessary (Section 43)
m mRenew brake hydraulic fluid (Section 44)
m mRenew camshaft drivebelt (optional on SOHC
models - compulsory on CVH) (Section 45)
m mRenew coolant (Section 46)
Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or
12 months - whichever comes sooner
(continued)

Page 10 of 22

3Slacken the drain plug about half a turn.
Position the draining container under the drain
plug, then remove the plug completely. If
possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the
sump while unscrewing it by hand the last
couple of turns. As the plug releases from the
threads, move it away sharply so the stream
of oil issuing from the sump runs into the
container, not up your sleeve! Recover the
sealing washer from the drain plug.
4Allow some time for the old oil to drain,
noting that it may be necessary to reposition
the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
5After all the oil has drained, wipe off the
drain plug with a clean rag. Check the sealing
washer for condition, and renew it if
necessary. Clean the area around the drain
plug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten the
plug to the specified torque.
6Move the container into position under the
oil filter.
7Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary,
slacken the filter initially, then unscrew it by
hand the rest of the way (see illustration).
Empty the oil from the old filter into the
container, and discard the filter.
8Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and
sludge from the filter sealing area on the
engine. Check the old filter to make sure that
the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the
engine. If it has, carefully remove it.
9Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to
the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it
into position on the engine. Tighten the filter
firmly by hand only - do notuse any tools.
Wipe clean the filter and sump drain plug.10Remove the old oil and all tools from
under the car, then lower the car to the
ground (if applicable).
11Remove the oil filler cap and withdraw the
dipstick. Fill the engine, using the correct
grade and type of oil (see “Lubricants and
fluids”). An oil can spout or funnel may help to
reduce spillage. Pour in half the specified
quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for
the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil
a small quantity at a time until the level is up to
the lower mark on the dipstick. Finally, bring
the level up to the upper mark on the dipstick.
Insert the dipstick, and refit the filler cap.
12Start the engine and run it for a few
minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter
seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there
may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil
pressure warning light goes out when the
engine is first started, as the oil circulates
through the engine oil galleries and the new oil
filter, before the pressure builds up.
13Switch off the engine, and wait a few
minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once
more. With the new oil circulated and the filter
completely full, recheck the level on the
dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
14Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with
reference to “General repair procedures”in
the Reference section of this manual.
1Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front and rear of the car and support it
securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and
vehicle support”).
2For a quick check, the front brake disc pads
can be inspected without removing the front
wheels by inserting a mirror between each
caliper and roadwheel(see illustration).If any
one pad is worn down to the minimum
specified thickness, all four pads (on both
front wheels) must be renewed.
3It is necessary to remove the rear wheels in
order to inspect the rear disc pads. The pads
can be viewed through the top of the caliper
after removing the blanking spring clip(see
illustration).If any one pad is worn down to
the minimum specified, all four pads (on both
rear wheels) must be renewed.4For a comprehensive check, the brake disc
pads should be removed and cleaned. The
operation of the caliper can then also be
checked, and the condition of the brake discs
can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to
Chapter 10 for further information.
5On rear drum brake models, the brake shoe
friction material can be inspected for wear
without removing the roadwheels. Working
beneath the vehicle, prise the plug from the
brake backplate, and using an inspection
lamp or torch, check that the friction material
thickness is not less than the minimum given
in the Specifications(see illustration).If any
one of the shoes has worn below the
specified limit, the shoes must be renewed as
an axle set (4 shoes).
6At the same interval, check the function of the
brake fluid level warning light. Chock the wheels,
release the handbrake and switch on the
ignition. Unscrew and raise the brake fluid
reservoir cap whilst an assistant observes the
warning light: it should come on as the level
sensor is withdrawn from the fluid. Refit the cap.
7On completion, refit the wheels and lower
the car to the ground.
1Visually inspect the engine joint faces,
gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil
leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas
around the rocker cover, cylinder head, oil
filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that
over a period of time some very slight
seepage from these areas is to be expected
but what you are really looking for is any
indication of a serious leak. Should a leak be
found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal
by referring to the appropriate Chapter(s) in
this manual.
2Similarly, check the transmission for oil
leaks, and investigate and rectify and
problems found.
3Check the security and condition of all the
engine related pipes and hoses. Ensure that
all cable-ties or securing clips are in place and
in good condition. Clips which are broken or
missing can lead to chafing of the hoses,
pipes or wiring which could cause more
serious problems in the future.
10Fluid leak check
9Front and rear brake pad/shoe
check
1•10Every 6000 miles or 6 months
8.7 Unscrewing the oil filter
9.3 Disc pads viewed through caliper
inspection hole (roadwheel removed)9.5 Brake shoe inspection hole plug
(arrowed)9.2 Using a mirror to inspect the disc pad
friction material for wear
A Brake disc B Brake disc pads

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6Fit the new filter, ensuring that the arrows on
the filter body point in the direction of fuel flow.
7Tighten the clamp screw, and reconnect
the fuel inlet and outlet unions. Ensure that the
unions are correctly connected.
8Reconnect the battery negative lead, and
check the fuel line unions for leaks,
pressurising the system by switching the
ignition on and off several times.
All models except 2.0 litre SOHC
9Proceed as described for the 2.0 litre SOHCmodels, noting the following points.
10The fuel filter is located under the rear of
the vehicle, above the driveshaft (see
illustration). For access to the filter, chock
the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the
vehicle and support it on axle stands.
11To remove the filter, the mounting bracket
must first be removed from the floor, after
unscrewing the securing bolt. The filter can
then be removed from the bracket after
unscrewing the clamp bolt.On carburettor model SOHC engines,
renew the crankcase ventilation vent valve by
pulling it from the oil separator and loosening
the hose clip (see illustration). Fit the new
valve, tighten the clip, and insert it into the oil
separator grommet.
42Crankcase ventilation vent
valve renewal
If in doubt as to the condition of any of the
brake system seals and hoses, then renew
defective items whilst referring to the relevant
Sections of Chapter 10.
1An assistant and bleeding equipment will
be needed. A considerable quantity of
hydraulic fluid will be required - probably
about 2 litres (nearly half a gallon).
2Slacken the front wheel nuts. Raise and
support the front of the vehicle and remove
the front wheels.
3Remove the hydraulic fluid reservoir cap.
4Open both front bleed screws one full turn.
Attach one bleed tube to each screw, placing
the free end of each tube in a jar.
5Pump the brake pedal to expel fluid from
the bleed screws. Pause after each upstroke
to allow the master cylinder to refill.
6When air emerges from both bleed screws,
stop pumping. Detach the left-hand caliper
without disconnecting it and remove the
inboard brake pad.
7Depress the caliper piston, using a
purpose-made tool or a blunt item such as a
tyre lever, to force more fluid out of the
caliper. Hold the piston depressed and have
the assistant pump the pedal until air emerges
from the bleed screw again.8Tighten the bleed screw on the left-hand
caliper. Loosely refit the caliper and pad so
that the piston is not accidentally ejected.
9Repeat the purging operation on the right-
hand caliper, but do not refit it or tighten the
bleed screw yet.
10Fill the reservoir with fresh hydraulic fluid.
Position the bleed jar for the right-hand
caliper at least 300 mm (1 foot) above the
level of the bleed screw.
11Have the assistant pump the brake pedal
until fluid free of bubbles emerges from the
bleed screw. Tighten the bleed screw at the
end of a downstroke.
12Place a piece of wood in the caliper jaws
to limit piston travel. Keep your fingers clear
of the piston. Have the assistant depress the
brake pedal gentlyin order to move the
caliper piston out.
13With the pedal held depressed, slacken
the bleed screw on the right-hand caliper and
again depress the piston. Tighten the bleed
screw when the piston is retracted. The pedal
can now be released.
14Disconnect the bleed tube. Refit the right-
hand brake pad and caliper.
15Remove the left-hand caliper and inboard
pad again. Carry out the operations described
in paragraphs 10 to 14 on the left-hand
caliper.
16Bleed the rear brakes (Chapter 10).
17Refit the front wheels, lower the vehicle
and tighten the wheel nuts.
18Pump the brake pedal to bring the pads
up to the discs, then make a final check of the
hydraulic fluid level. Top-up and refit the
reservoir cap.Camshaft drivebelt renewal is
recommended as a precautionary measure for
SOHC engines but is compulsory for CVH
engines. Refer to Chapter 2 for the
appropriate renewal procedure.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2It is preferable to drain the cooling system
with the engine cold. If this is not possible,
take precautions against scalding when
removing the expansion tank cap. Place a
thick rag over the cap and slacken the cap a
little to release any pressure. When all
pressure has been released, carry on
unscrewing the cap and remove it.
3Early models have no radiator drain plug, so
the radiator must be drained by detaching the
bottom coolant hose from the outlet on the
right-hand side of the radiator. Later SOHC
models have a drain plug located in the base
of the left-hand radiator end tank, whilst all
CVH models have a drain plug in the
right-hand radiator end tank and DOHC
models have a plug to the bottom right-hand
side of the radiator.
46Engine coolant renewal
45Camshaft drivebelt renewal
44Brake hydraulic fluid renewal
43Brake hydraulic system seal
and hose renewal
Every 36 000 miles or 3 years 1•21
1
42.1 Removing the crankcase vent valve
from the oil separator41.10 Fuel filter location (arrowed) under
rear of vehicle41.1 Fuel filter location - outlet union
arrowed
Caution: Before proceeding,
note the precautions given in
Chapter 3, Section 1.
Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or 3 years